UK Trip 2025
ell, it's finally here! After nearly two years of planning, the trip has begun as my mom, my aunt Sandy, cousin Chris, and I set off for the UK. With the excitement of the trip looming, we all slept like crap on Sunday night, our last night in the States for the next two weeks. None of us managed to get any real sleep on the flight over, so by the time we landed, jet lag had fully set in, and we were all a bit zombified. However, we soldiered on, grabbed our bags, and caught the shuttle to Enterprise to pick up the car.
We ended up with a Peugeot 3008 hybrid that is actually really cool. Mom stepped up and took the first shift behind the wheel, driving us to Bourton-on-the-Water. This is my third time visiting the town, affectionately known as the Venice of the Cotswolds, and I think I’ve enjoyed it more each time. We couldn’t check into our Airbnb until 4 pm, so we had a little time to kill. Mom and I dropped off Chris and Sandy in the center of town while we attempted to find parking.
Unfortunately, we couldn’t find any close-by street parking and ended up parking back down behind the Royal British Legion and Range Rover service station that we used on our last trip here. We also attempted to find the Airbnb, so we knew exactly where we were going when we finally checked in, but we couldn’t make sense of the written directions or the misleading location of the Google Maps pin for the address. Nevertheless, we decided that was a problem for later, and walked back to town to meet up with Chris and Sandy.
Bleary-eyed, but excited, we decided it was a good time for our first meal in the UK. We headed to The Old Manse, the same place Mom and I had been to two years ago when we were here. The Old Manse, initially built in 1748, comprises a pub and restaurant on the ground floor and an inn on the stories above. We tucked into a small corner table and looked over the menu of quintessential British pub fare, including fish and chips, meat pies, and more. Mom, Sandy, and I chose the beef and ale pie, and Chris ordered the rump steak sandwich. Whether because of the lack of sleep or our voracious appetites, none of us thought to snap a single photo while at the Old Manse.
Upon finishing, Chris and I set off to find the Airbnb to pick up the keys and the remote control for the electronic gate to our private parking spot. Again, perhaps due to our current state of exhaustion, this proved easier said than done. Before leaving the Old Manse, Chris asked the barman if he could help with directions, and he provided us with some landmarks and streets to look for to help us find our way. Armed with his verbal directions, the Airbnb host’s written directions, and Google Maps, we wandered the streets searching unsuccessfully for about 10 minutes. Eventually, we even tried calling the host to get more specific directions, but couldn’t figure out how to dial UK numbers, lol. Frustrated and tired, we decided to walk to the end of the street we were on to see if we recognized any of the landmarks we were looking for. At that moment, we realized that for 10 minutes, we had been standing in front of the building next to the one we were looking for, haha!
Both amused and ashamed by our directional ineptitude, we acquired the key and gate remote and did a quick walkthrough of the Airbnb. It’s unclear to me whether this is an old building in remarkably good condition or a newer construction built to match the look and feel of the traditional Cotswold architectural style. Regardless, it’s a fantastic property with four bedrooms and three bathrooms across three stories. I was gifted the third-story main bedroom, with an en suite bathroom, which I suspect was mainly because no one else wanted to walk up three stories, haha.
Chris and I then walked back to the car so we could pick up Mom and Sandy and then bring them back to the Airbnb. This was my first time driving on the left side of the road since my last trip two years ago. It’s not as difficult as it sounds. Still, it’s definitely nice to have someone in the passenger seat to help remind you how to navigate the roundabouts and intersections, and also alert you when you’re getting dangerously close to a curb, wall, hedgerow, or pedestrian.
After picking up Mom and Sandy, we headed to the B&B to get everyone settled in and try to fight off the exhaustion long enough to sleep through the night. After sitting for a bit, it was clear that if we stayed in, we were all going to fall asleep. So, we decided to go for a little walk around the town. We first walked through the local church cemetery, where we met a lovely English woman who asked where we were visiting from. It turned out that her son had moved to Cincinnati about 20 years ago. It truly is a small world. We then meandered our way across the arched canal bridges and through the winding little back alleys filled with shops, restaurants, and ice cream stalls before deciding to head back for the night.
On the way, we stopped at Budgen’s, a UK-based convenience store chain, to buy some snacks and drinks for the next few days. Mom was really keen to buy some Cadbury Dairymilk chocolate bars, but unfortunately was beaten to it by an Indian family who bought more than $300 worth of the chocolate, leaving the shelves mostly bare by the time Mom got to them. The woman at the checkout was quite gruff and unpleasant to everyone she interacted with, and seemed to genuinely dislike dealing with tourists and the public in general. Perhaps working at a convenience store in a popular tourist town isn’t the best role for her, lol. But we didn’t let her surliness dampen our mood and headed back to wind down for the evening, with the goal of making it to 7 pm local time before going to bed. Mom, Sandy, and Chris iced their various aching joints and muscles as I began writing up this recap.
aving successfully overcome the jetlag, we began our first full day of the trip with a walk to town to visit some shops and headed to the Bakery on the Water for breakfast. I ordered an Americano and a cinnamon roll. Mom got a lemon cake and a mocha. Chris got a pan au chocolat and a coffee, and Sandy got a tea and a scone. Fully fed and caffeinated, we headed to the post office to grab stamps so Mom, Sandy, and Chris could get stamps to send back postcards.
Next, Chris took her first turn at driving, as we headed out to the Diddly Squat Farm Shop, owned by Jeremy Clarkson and featured heavily in the Amazon Prime show Clarkson’s Farm. She took to driving very quickly, and the farm show was an absolute blast. We all bought some snacks and then walked around to the back of the shop to the seating area that had a few vendors and a counter where you could buy Hawkstone Brewery beers. We began to notice that nearly everyone we encountered had a dog, and we struck up many conversations with locals after asking to pet their dogs. Chris, whose dog had recently passed away, was experiencing dog fever and kept seeing cockapoos everywhere. We met a woman from Gloucester with a whippet named Rosie and a couple from Leeds with a pair of cockapoos named Dexter and Lady. Everyone was eager to hear about our trip and share ideas for other things we might enjoy along the way. We sampled some of the foods and shared a few half pints of beer between the four of us before hopping back in the car to head to the pub that Clarkson purchased and reopened on the most recent season of the show, called The Farmer’s Dog.
First, we checked out the shop on the grounds of the pub, located in the giant tent that Clarkson, along with his co-hosts James May and Richard Hammond, used to host the first few seasons of Amazon’s “The Grand Tour.” Mom bought a Diddly Squat Farm sweatshirt, and then we headed into the pub, where everyone but me had a pint. As someone who rarely drinks these days, I opted to let them all have the fun and handle the drive back. While we sat on the giant patio at the back, we met another couple from Blackpool who had a very old, blind cockapoo. We had a great conversation with them about our trip and their current travels. After about half an hour, they headed off, and then, ironically enough, the couple from Leeds that we had met at Diddly Squat showed up with their dogs. After recognizing us, we invited them to join us at the big table we were at and spent the rest of our time talking and laughing. We had a wonderful time, and everyone we met was so kind and welcoming.
n day three of the trip, we started with another stop at Bakery on the Water before heading to Croft Castle. Initially, when we planned the trip, we were going to get two rental cars, and Mom and I were going to skip Croft Castle and head to Wrexham to hopefully catch a football match. But the schedule didn't line up, and tickets were tough to get, even if they did. So, we decided it was best to save the extra rental money and go with Chris and Sandy to Croft Castle, then stop for a bit in Wrexham on our way from the castle to Conwy.
Chris drove the whole way to Croft Castle, Wrexham, and Conwy. She took to it super quickly, way faster than my mom and I did a few years ago. We got to Croft Castle just as they opened and were greeted by a docent who asked if we had ever been there before. When I mentioned that Mom and I had been there a few years ago, and pointed out the painting we had talked to a docent about last time, thinking it might be our last ancestor who lived in the castle, George Croft. She said that in the two years since we had been there, they had confirmed that the painting was indeed of George and confirmed the dates and relationships I had found in my research.
While walking around the first floor of the castle, I heard the piano from a few rooms away playing Leonard Cohen’s “Hallelujah” and made my way toward it to watch and listen to the last half of the song. It was a bit anachronistic, but the old piano sounded great in the large room.
On the second floor, while we were looking at the wall-sized family tree, the docent who had greeted us met us there with some additional documentation on the relationships and stories of our ancestors. It turns out that one of the reasons we hadn’t been able to find much information about our last ancestor from the property, George, was because his father, Edward Croft, was put on trial in 1589 for having contrived the death of Robert Dudley, 1st Earl of Leicester and Royal Favourite of the Queen, by witchcraft. So there’s little information about Edward or his son George, as they were a bit on the outs with the family.
Edward’s father, James, however, has quite a bit of information on his history. At one point, he was the Lord Deputy of Ireland, he was granted Tintern Abbey, imprisoned twice in the Tower of London, and somehow, eventually named one of the 36 commissioners for the trial of Mary, Queen of Scots, which convicted her of treason and led to her execution. The most interesting part to me is that the other side of my grandma’s family was descendants of the Blairs of Ayr, Scotland, supporters of William Wallace, who fought for Scotland’s independence nearly 250 years before Mary Queen of Scots was born.
When we were planning this trip, I was a little bummed at spending time during the vacation coming to Croft Castle for the third time, but each time, I’ve learned more about my family’s history, and it’s so great to finally get confirmation about all of the bits of info I had pieced together on our heritage.
After walking the grounds, we hopped back in the car and Chris drove us to Wrexham on our way to Conwy. We stopped at The Turf for a pint and were met by a local man in the parking lot who was clearly enjoying his small amount of fame as he bragged about being in season 1 episode 4 of Welcome To Wrexham. He chatted with us for quite a while before we went inside. He was very friendly, and the conversation was fun, but we were excited to get inside and see The Turf again. We spent a few minutes chatting with Wayne, who asked where we were traveling from. When I told him about our trip and mentioned that Mom and I had been there a few years ago, he actually remembered some details from our last conversation and that we had stopped by before. He was super friendly, and we loved having the opportunity to talk with him a bit.
Before leaving the city, we stopped in the team store for AFC Wrexham, then headed out for the final hour drive to Conwy. We got all of our bags unpacked and checked in, and went to Alfredo’s for dinner. After dinner, I took the car to park it somewhere that we could leave it overnight, just outside the city wall. Unfortunately, in the dark, I didn’t notice the turn to the street with the parking until I had already passed it. So I just turned on the next left, which happened to be a tiny, single-lane bridge. I couldn’t immediately turn around because there was another car behind me, so I drove to the next pull-off to let the car by and turn around.
Eventually, I made my way back across the tiny bridge and turned onto the correct street. The parking is alongside the street on a steep hill with a pay-to-park machine at the bottom. Unfortunately I had to park at the top of the hill and walk down to the machine to pay, only to find out that I needed the license plate number of the car, so I walked back to the top of the hill and took a picture of it, then made my way back to the machine, paid, and walked back to meet the others to walk around and see Conwy at night before turning in for the day.
So far, the trip has way outperformed all of our expectations. Great weather, scenery, and conversations!
n day four, we started with breakfast at the Hidden Chapel Restaurant at the Gwynfryn B&B, which was absolutely delightful. Afterward, Chris and Sandy headed off to tour Conwy Castle, while Mom and I opted out since we had done it last time. Instead, we wandered around the town, browsing through shops before grabbing our travel backgammon game and heading down to the wharf to enjoy the fresh air and play a few rounds. When Chris and Sandy finished, they joined us for a bit, and then we decided it was time to figure out what to do for lunch.
No one could seem to decide on anything, so Chris and I made an executive decision—we’d go to Llandudno for lunch. We started walking toward the car to see how long it would take our moms to realize we weren’t heading to a restaurant, haha. Eventually, we left them at the city wall while we fetched the car, then picked them up and set off for Llandudno. The drive itself was uneventful, but I managed to parallel park on the left side of the street while driving a right-hand drive car!
We decided to walk around the city first, though I wasn’t too impressed at first. The streets were lined with kitschy shops selling overpriced souvenirs and silly trinkets—it honestly reminded me a bit of the boardwalk in Myrtle Beach. But then we headed toward the beach on our way back to the car to drive up to the Great Orme headland, and that’s when everything changed. The beach views were terrific, with the coastline curving around as if it were wrapping you in an embrace. Little did I know that the truly breathtaking scenery was still to come.
Chris drove us up to the top of the Great Orme, navigating the steep, winding road that occasionally featured a ram or two wandering along the sidewalk. When we reached the summit, we were met with some of the most stunning views I’ve ever seen. The photos don’t even begin to capture how awe-inspiring it was. Honestly, if you’re ever within a few hours of Llandudno, you absolutely must see it for yourself.
We eventually made our way back to Conwy, where we relaxed on the balcony at the Hidden Chapel Restaurant, played a few more games, and then grabbed dinner at Achway Fish & Chips before calling it a night.
his morning, we woke up early for breakfast and to head out to Snowdon Mountain Railway, the only public narrow-gauge rack and pinion cog railway in the United Kingdom. I drove this time, and we made it there in about thirty minutes. We were early, so we spent some time perusing the gift shop before making our way onto the train. It took about an hour to get to the top, with some stunning views along the way. We were a little bummed that the top of the mountain appeared to be shrouded in clouds and mist. To our pleasant surprise, we eventually rose above the clouds and were met with breathtaking views of the summit and various other peaks jutting through the cloud cover.
The summit was packed with people, as today was an annual charity walk, so we didn’t have time to wait in line to get our picture at the summit marker. After what seemed like a very quick half hour, we headed back down. Right across from the carpark we found the bridge to Dolbadarn Castle and took a short hike through the woods to check it out before leaving. We decided to drive through the town of Llanberis to try to find a place to grab lunch. Unfortunately, it was also packed due to the charity walk and we couldn’t even find parking. So, we changed our destination to the Cefn Coch Stone Circles.
On our way, we stopped at Burger King for a cheap and quick lunch before continuing toward Penmaenmawr, where the road up the mountain to the stone circles begins. Following Google Maps led us to the narrowest two-way road I’ve ever seen, called Mountain Lane. Not only was it only one lane, but it was barely even that wide. After about a mile of winding, narrow road, we came upon a gate and weren’t sure if we were supposed to drive past it. Ultimately, I decided it was too sketchy, so I used a small passing area to turn around while Chris walked up the hill to see if it was part of the trail. She called just as I finished turning around to say that the car park was just over the crest we could see—but it was full anyway.
Chris really wanted to hike to the stone circles, but I was feeling pretty tired and stressed from the drive, so I decided to stay with the car in a tucked-in spot where others could pass. My mom joined Chris for part of the trail but ended up turning back to wait with me while Chris finished the hike. When Chris returned, she was so thankful that we were willing to wait while she checked off a bucket list item. She also offered to drive down the mountain, which I gladly accepted!
We had been searching for a place to have dinner, but couldn’t find anything that wasn’t too fancy or fully booked on a Saturday night. Instead, we stopped at Co-op to grab some food to bring back. I picked up spicy chicken tenders while everyone else bought prepared sandwiches. When we got back to the room, I took a bite of the chicken, only to realize it wasn’t fully cooked, so I immediately spat it out. Now, a few hours later, I’m just waiting to see if I get sick—fingers crossed!
After my near miss with the raw chicken, we went to hang out in The Hidden Chapel again. We talked about how fantastic the trip has been and reminisced about Grandma, Grandpa, and all of the fun we’ve had as a family through the years. It was a lot of fun, and I’m glad we’ve had some relaxing downtime during the trip to really reflect and enjoy it.
While hanging out, we talked about plans for tomorrow and decided to add a few stops in Liverpool to see some Beatles sites before ending the day in Glasgow.
e woke up early to get on the road for our longest day of driving yet, heading from Conwy to Glasgow by way of Liverpool. I cued up all of the Beatles sites we wanted to see, and after a couple of missed turns and confusing intersections, we eventually made it to our first stop—Paul McCartney's childhood home. From there, we visited Penny Lane, John Lennon's childhood home, and finished up with a stop at the Strawberry Fields gates. We didn't do any of the organized tours, just stopped to grab a few quick photos. It was fun to see, but honestly, it was probably only worth it for die-hard Beatles fans unless you're already planning to be in Liverpool.
Once we had our fill of Beatles history, we got back on the road toward Glasgow. Along the way, Chris found a great stop for us at Lowther Castle. It looked amazing from the outside, and though we didn’t have time for an interior tour, we wandered the grounds for a bit and took in the views before continuing north. Somewhere along the way, I almost missed the “Welcome to Scotland” sign, but managed to catch it just in time.
We hit some pretty slow traffic on the way into Glasgow, but eventually made it around 4:30 in the afternoon. Luckily, we snagged the parking spot right in front of the hotel—though we had to be out by 8 am the next morning. Once we settled in, Chris went for a walk through the park, Mom and Sandy played backgammon, and I tackled the mountain of photos I’d taken while planning out tomorrow’s sightseeing route.
For dinner, we went to The Butchershop. We’d booked a reservation, thinking it would be a Sunday roast, only to find out that the roast is mainly served at lunchtime. So, we ordered off the regular menu instead. Mom, Chris, and I all got the blackened chicken with mashed potatoes and veggies, while Sandy ordered the filet with mash. It was a great way to end a long but memorable travel day.
We hit some pretty slow traffic on the way into Glasgow, but eventually made it around 4:30 in the afternoon. Luckily, we snagged the parking spot right in front of the hotel—though we had to be out by 8 am the next morning. Once we settled in, Chris went for a walk through the park, Mom and Sandy played backgammon, and I tackled the mountain of photos I’d taken while planning out tomorrow’s sightseeing route.
For dinner, we went to The Butchershop. We’d booked a reservation, thinking it would be a Sunday roast, only to find out that the roast is mainly served at lunchtime. So, we ordered off the regular menu instead. Mom, Chris, and I all got the blackened chicken with mashed potatoes and veggies, while Sandy ordered the filet with mash. It was a great way to end a long but memorable travel day.
oday, we woke up and hurried to get out of our parking spot by 8 am. On the way out of town, we stopped by McDonald's to grab Chris a coffee and a few breakfast sandwiches. The morning was very foggy, and we worried that it would obscure many of the views we were looking forward to in Glencoe. So, we decided to take our time getting there, hoping the fog would burn off as the day went on.
We started working through the list of points of interest I’d mapped out along our route. Our first detour was through the charming community of Luss, where we took a quick scenic drive before rejoining the A82. Our first official stop was Firkin Point, a lovely spot along Loch Lomond where we saw plenty of camper vans and hikers with dogs enjoying the morning air.
Next, we accidentally passed the pull-off for the Falls of Falloch and had to find a way to turn around. We were so glad we did—it ended up being one of the highlights of the trip so far. The car park was absolute chaos, but once we found a spot, there was a short walk to the waterfall and a metal cage-like viewing platform that offered a fantastic perspective. For lunch, we stopped by the Glencoe Mountain Ski Lodge, which was packed with hikers, mountain bikers and more. The even had these cool little pod things where people could stay.
From there, we stopped at a viewpoint overlooking the hills, then made a brief stop at a bog where we stretched our legs and walked around for a bit. As we continued toward Glencoe, we reached the thing I had been both most looking forward to and most anxious about: Glen Etive Road. This five-mile, dead-end, single-track road is famous for its breathtaking scenery and appearances in films like Skyfall, Gladiator, and Braveheart.
We switched drivers so I could take the wheel. Even though I was nervous enough to consider backing out, I decided to go for it. It turned out to be one of the most incredible experiences of the trip—gorgeous scenery, fun driving, and a real adventure outside my comfort zone. There were definitely a few tense, narrow passing moments, but it was absolutely worth it. The road ended at a beautiful loch where we spent some time taking in the view and chatting with a father and son who were flying a drone and taking photos. I asked Chris to drive back so I could sit and enjoy the scenery on the way out.
Back on the A82, we soon came across the iconic white house of Glencoe and stopped to take some photos. The car park was full of potholes big enough to swallow a small car, but thankfully, the Peugeot handled them just fine. Only a few minutes later, we arrived at the Clachaig Inn, our lodging for the night. It was in a stunning location at the base of a mountain, and the staff couldn’t have been friendlier.
Chris, Mom, and I went for a short hike to the site where Hagrid’s Hut from Harry Potter was filmed. While there, we met a group from Utah and Arizona who were at the beginning of their own trip through Scotland. When we returned, we headed to the inn’s pub for dinner—a quintessentially cozy spot with low ceilings, warm wood details, dim lighting, and lively conversation.
Since it was still early, we wrapped up the evening by playing a few rounds of backgammon before heading to bed, perfectly content after another full day of adventure.
oday was an unexpectedly long day—filled with incredible views, winding drives made even longer by unforeseen detours, and a few dark, one-lane adventures. Despite the chaos, it turned out to be a pretty amazing day.
Our plan was to take the Mallaig Ferry into the Isle of Skye from the south and then, when we left in a few days, cross back via the Kyle of Lochalsh Bridge. That way, we wouldn’t have to retrace our route and could see more of the region. We set out from Glencoe toward the ferry, with a planned stop at the Glenfinnan Viaduct—made famous by the Harry Potter films as the route of the Hogwarts Express. Although we weren’t there at the right time to see the Jacobite steam train pass, the view of the viaduct itself was stunning and surreal to see in person. We hiked up the trail for a bit before Sandy turned back to rest her Achilles, while Mom and I went a bit farther with Chris before deciding to head back—neither of us wanting to aggravate any lingering knee or foot issues. We met up with Sandy and drove to the end of the trail where Chris would finish her hike, meeting her at the train station and museum.
Our plan was to take the Mallaig Ferry into the Isle of Skye from the south and then, when we left in a few days, cross back via the Kyle of Lochalsh Bridge. That way, we wouldn’t have to retrace our route and could see more of the region. We set out from Glencoe toward the ferry, with a planned stop at the Glenfinnan Viaduct—made famous by the Harry Potter films as the route of the Hogwarts Express. Although we weren’t there at the right time to see the Jacobite steam train pass, the view of the viaduct itself was stunning and surreal to see in person. We hiked up the trail for a bit before Sandy turned back to rest her Achilles, while Mom and I went a bit farther with Chris before deciding to head back—neither of us wanting to aggravate any lingering knee or foot issues. We met up with Sandy and drove to the end of the trail where Chris would finish her hike, meeting her at the train station and museum.
With Glenfinnan complete, we hit the road again, eager to catch the ferry to Skye and make our way to Portree, where we’d be staying for the next few days. After turning west from Fort William, we drove about forty-five minutes to the Mallaig Ferry Terminal—only to be greeted by a worker who informed us that our ferry had been canceled due to a medical emergency. Obviously, someone’s health takes priority, but we couldn’t help feeling deflated. The ferry worker kindly explained that we could wait on standby for the next sailing, but there was already one car ahead of us—and on the previous ferry, only one standby car had made it on. Our best bet to reach Portree that night was to turn around, drive forty-five minutes back to Fort William, and then head north to Invergarry before cutting west to cross the bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh.
As we got closer to Skye, the gas gauge started dipping low—and, at the same time, so did our patience and our bladders. The nearest gas station was forty miles away, a reminder that Scotland’s remote regions don’t share the same road-trip infrastructure we’re used to: no rest stops, few gas stations, and even fewer public bathrooms. We stopped first in Inverinate to fuel up, only to learn there wasn’t a public restroom. The next station had none either. Finally, as we passed through Kyle of Lochalsh, Chris spotted a WC sign for a public toilet. We followed it and, to our relief, found a clean restroom that accepted card payments—67 pence well spent.
Crossing the bridge into Skye, we ended up stuck behind a blue BMW going twenty miles under the speed limit. None of us felt confident enough to pass on the narrow, winding roads, so we just resigned ourselves to the slower pace. Chris found us a restaurant—Caberfeidh Bar and Restaurant—and we decided to stop for dinner before heading to the Airbnb. The pizzas hit the spot, and it was nice to unwind a bit before tackling the final leg of the drive.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, we realized none of us had cell service—and therefore no GPS. I drove to the top of a nearby hill, hoping to pick up a signal. Eventually, Chris managed to get the map to load, but not directions, so she navigated the old-fashioned way—by reading the map and matching landmarks. Her route led us onto a narrow, single-track farm road full of potholes and completely unlit except for a few porch lights from scattered houses.
We pulled into what we thought was our Airbnb, only to find two cars already in the driveway. As we sat trying to make sense of things, a woman came outside. Thankfully, she was kind and understanding, laughing as she told us not to worry—we were “on Skye time now.” She explained that we were close and just needed to drive to the end of the road, where there were two houses—the one on the left was ours. We followed her instructions but still couldn’t find the lockbox and weren’t sure we were in the right place. After driving back and forth a couple more times—and even flagging down another driver—we finally confirmed that we had been in the correct spot all along.
The Airbnb itself was an oddly laid-out house, at least by American standards, but we were just happy to be out of the car at last. Everyone settled in, and Chris and I decided to introduce Mom and Sandy to the Harry Potter movies, since we’d seen so many filming locations on the trip. After figuring out how to log into my Netflix account, we started the first movie. We made it about halfway through before a load of laundry finished and interrupted us. We took it as a sign that it was time for bed—ready to rest up for another big day on Skye tomorrow.
woke on day nine eager to see what the views around our Airbnb looked like, since we couldn't see a thing in the dark the night before. As I walked into the hallway, Mom and Sandy were heading out to drive and meet Chris at a coffee shop at the end of the road, where she had walked a bit earlier. I decided to stay and relax since I had just woken up. After they left and I brushed my teeth, I walked into the living room, where a giant picture window revealed one of the most stunning views yet.
I tried to capture a photo through the window, but it was speckled with water spots from the morning dew. So, I opened the front door and took a photo from inside to fully show what the view was from the house—just breathtaking. When everyone returned from the coffee shop, we all piled into the car to do some sightseeing. Initially, we toyed with the idea of paying for a tour bus, but decided that being stuck with a group all day wasn’t what we wanted. Instead, we used the tour’s itinerary to help plan our own day.
On our way to Kilt Rock, we caught distant views of the Old Man of Storr, the iconic shard of rock jutting out of the landscape. At the Kilt Rock viewpoint, we admired the beautiful waterfall cascading into the sea and the panoramic views of the rugged coastline. Then we had another Google Maps mix-up. I had entered “Quiraing,” which brought up a ton of options—viewpoints, trailheads, parking lots, and more. Somehow, I managed to select one that took us on a tiny, windy, pothole-filled single-track road that circled the entire geologic formation. I didn’t take many photos because I was on pothole and oncoming-traffic spotting duty while Chris drove. It was stressful, especially when we hit a few potholes hard.
On the plus side, about two-thirds of the way through, we came across a few Highland cows hanging out near a farm. We pulled over to say hi and take some photos, which made the rough drive feel worthwhile. After what felt like an eternity, we finally ended up at the car park we had originally intended to reach if we had taken the shorter route. We hopped out, stretched our legs, and walked to a few nearby viewpoints before I took over driving for the trip back to Portree.
On the plus side, about two-thirds of the way through, we came across a few Highland cows hanging out near a farm. We pulled over to say hi and take some photos, which made the rough drive feel worthwhile. After what felt like an eternity, we finally ended up at the car park we had originally intended to reach if we had taken the shorter route. We hopped out, stretched our legs, and walked to a few nearby viewpoints before I took over driving for the trip back to Portree.
Just after we made it through the first few switchbacks, a line of cars coming from the opposite direction pulled too far past a passing point and were following each other too closely to all get by. The camper van in front of me and I both edged as far to the side of the road as we dared, and the oncoming cars squeezed by with only a few tense millimeters to spare. The rest of the drive was much less stressful as the roads gradually widened and eventually became two lanes again.
Back in Portree, we wandered around town, visited a few shops, and grabbed dinner at the same place as the night before. We have a habit of skipping lunch and getting hungry right when many restaurants close between lunch and dinner, so our options were limited—but it worked out fine. On the way back from dinner, Chris and I were dropped off at the end of the road to our Airbnb so we could hike back. Along the way, we ran into an old farmer transporting sheep to another field. It turned out he was the grandfather of the guy who owned the house we were staying in and had grown up in the house next door. As we chatted about his life and farming, his grandson and great-grandson arrived on an ATV to help unload the sheep while I took some video. During that moment, a massive military plane roared overhead, adding a strange, cinematic twist to the peaceful farm scene.
Afterward, we continued our walk back to the house, where everyone gathered to relax and finish the first Harry Potter movie and part of the second before heading to bed.
n day ten, we packed up and began the more than hour-long drive to leave the Isle of Skye. I drove the first leg to the most stunning castle of the trip, Eilean Donan.
The castle sat in ruins for nearly 200 years after it was destroyed in 1719 during the Jacobite rising. Lt. Colonel John MacRae-Gilstrap purchased the island in 1911 and began its reconstruction—a project that took 20 years and was completed in 1932. While it’s not an original surviving castle, it offers an incredible look at what castle life was like, and it remains home to some members of the MacRae clan to this day. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside, but I took plenty from the outside to capture its dramatic beauty against the water and mountains.
Once we had finished touring the castle, we headed toward Loch Ness on our way to Inverness. From what I’d read, Loch Ness wasn’t particularly scenic—its appeal lies more in the lore and mystery surrounding the Loch Ness Monster. We stopped in a small town along the loch called Drumnadrochit and tried to find a place for lunch. By now, we’d developed a bad habit of waiting too long to eat and ending up searching for food during the time between lunch and dinner when most restaurants—especially in small villages—were closed.
Unable to find a suitable lunch option, we wandered through some souvenir shops for a bit before getting back on the road to Inverness. In the early evening, we arrived at our hotel, the AC Marriott, and checked in. After settling in, we searched for dinner options and found a great spot called Coyote Burger, which had delicious food and beautiful views of the river.
After dinner, we took the long way back through town, enjoying the evening lights and river views, before returning to the hotel to watch another Harry Potter movie before bed. Before starting the movie, I discovered a tick bite while changing my shirt. We hadn’t really been anywhere that day where I could’ve picked up a tick, but I had re-worn the same jacket from our hike the day before and can only assume it had hitched a ride then and bit me on the drive to Inverness. It was very small and easy to remove, and after a bit of research, I learned that only about 5% of ticks in Scotland are estimated to carry Lyme disease. I’m probably fine—and as I write this a few days later, I haven’t noticed any rash or fatigue—but I’ll definitely be keeping an eye out for symptoms, since they can take up to two weeks to appear.
ay eleven started with a visit to Culloden Battlefield. The Battle of Culloden was the final, decisive victory for the British government forces over the Jacobite army led by Prince Charles Edward Stuart on April 16, 1746. The battle, which lasted less than an hour, was a brutal defeat for the Jacobites, who were outnumbered and outgunned. It marked the end of the Jacobite Rising and any serious attempt to restore the Stuart monarchy. The location itself is really just a field, but there's a palpable sense of history as you look across it, imagining the chaos and loss that took place there.
On our way south through the Cairngorms National Park, we stopped at Balmoral Castle. Balmoral is famous as the private, beloved summer retreat of the British Royal Family—a tradition cemented by Queen Victoria, who acquired it in 1852 and made it a sanctuary for her family. It’s known for its picturesque setting in the Scottish Highlands and for hosting royal gatherings, holidays, and celebrations away from public life. The castle also holds greater significance as the place where Queen Elizabeth II passed away in September 2022.
There’s only a limited portion of the castle available to tour, so we opted instead to stroll the grounds and explore the local artisan market that was being held there. The market was filled with tents selling a variety of goods—blacksmith crafts, handmade soaps, paintings, sculptures, jewelry, and more. From the outside, the castle was stunningly grand, and it was easy to see why it became such a cherished retreat for the royal family.
During the trip my mom and I took a few years ago, the Cairngorms were one of the scenic highlights, and we were eager to share it with Chris and Sandy. However, after the mind-blowing views of the Great Orme, Glencoe, and the Isle of Skye, they seemed a bit underwhelmed. It was still beautiful, of course, but compared to some of the world’s most spectacular landscapes, it’s hard to compete.
During the trip my mom and I took a few years ago, the Cairngorms were one of the scenic highlights, and we were eager to share it with Chris and Sandy. However, after the mind-blowing views of the Great Orme, Glencoe, and the Isle of Skye, they seemed a bit underwhelmed. It was still beautiful, of course, but compared to some of the world’s most spectacular landscapes, it’s hard to compete.
After our drive through the Cairngorms, we passed through Perth and crossed the Firth of Forth toward Edinburgh. Chris and Sandy had decided to stay in the city center so they could be within walking distance of the main attractions from their hotel. My mom and I, on the other hand, opted to stay at the same hotel near the airport where we had stayed last time. Since we had already explored Edinburgh on our previous trip, we planned to spend the next few days doing day trips to the surrounding areas.
Driving into downtown Edinburgh was an adventure in itself—the traffic was intense, and navigating the narrow streets of the Grassmarket area took some patience. Once we dropped Chris and Sandy off and made our way back to the hotel, it was a relief to finally take a breath and know that all the major traveling and driving for the trip was behind us, aside from one easy drive to St. Andrews still to come.
n day twelve, Chris and Sandy spent the day exploring Edinburgh on the Hop-On Hop-Off bus tour, which left my mom and me with the day to ourselves to figure out something to do. Our original plan was to visit the Kelpies and Stirling Castle, then St. Andrews to pick up Christmas presents for my dad. But after all the driving we'd done over the past several days, we decided to take it easy. Instead of tackling a full itinerary, we had a slow morning and then made the shorter drive to St. Andrews.
We arrived around noon and found a quick spot for lunch—a small burger place called Saint’s Sizzle. It turned out to be one of the cheapest and tastiest meals of the entire trip, a pleasant surprise given how expensive St. Andrews can be. After eating, we spent the afternoon wandering through the town, exploring the shops, and picking up a few gifts.
Before leaving, we walked over to the iconic Swilcan Bridge on the Old Course, where we FaceTimed my dad and took a funny photo of Mom holding up the phone so it looked like he was standing on the bridge with her. It was a sweet little moment that perfectly tied the day together.
Afterward, we drove back to Edinburgh and took an Uber from the hotel into town to meet up with Chris and Sandy. We strolled around the Grassmarket area, grabbed some gelato, and enjoyed the city’s lively evening atmosphere. When it was time to call it a night, we said goodbye to Chris and Sandy and headed back to the hotel to get some rest.
n day thirteen, Chris and Sandy spent the day touring Holyrood Palace and Edinburgh Castle—two places my mom and I had already visited—so we decided to venture out on our own. We caught the bus into town and spent the morning exploring areas of the city we hadn't seen before. We wandered through the University of Edinburgh campus, taking in its mix of historic buildings and student life, before looping back to the Grassmarket for lunch. We ended up eating at the same Italian restaurant we'd enjoyed on our last trip, which brought back some great memories.
After lunch, we decided to check out Dean Village, a quiet, picturesque neighborhood we’d heard about but never visited. It was about a 25-minute walk from where we were, and we told ourselves that if it felt too long, we could always catch a bus back. As we made our way there, the atmosphere gradually changed. The busy, tourist-filled city center faded behind us, replaced by quieter streets lined with small cafés and corner shops. The souvenir stores and crowds gave way to locals running errands or walking their dogs. It felt like we were getting a glimpse of everyday Edinburgh rather than the version designed for visitors.
As we walked, my mom and I both noticed how often we fell into the habit of walking quickly—like we were rushing to get somewhere—rather than just enjoying the moment. We kept reminding each other to slow down, to take in where we were, and to appreciate the walk itself instead of treating it as a task to complete.
Eventually, we came to a steep hill with a sign pointing toward Dean Village. My mom asked if we’d have to walk back up that hill later. “No, I’m sure we can catch a bus from the bottom,” I said with misplaced confidence. When we reached the bottom, we found one of the most charming spots of the entire trip—a storybook village nestled along the Water of Leith, with stone buildings that looked like they hadn’t changed in centuries. Unfortunately, a quick check of Google Maps revealed that there was, in fact, no nearby bus stop for the route we needed. That meant we’d have to hike back up the steep hill and walk several blocks before catching the bus back to the hotel.
Tired but satisfied, we eventually made it back, just as Chris and Sandy arrived to check in for their final night of the trip. We headed out together for dinner at Nando’s—something I’d been looking forward to for nearly two years—and it was every bit as good as I’d remembered.
During dinner, we decided it would be best to return the rental car that night since our flight was early the next morning, well before Enterprise opened. Chris had been burned on a previous trip when a rental company claimed a GPS unit was missing and that there was damage to the car, costing her hundreds of dollars, so we didn’t want to risk that happening again.
I volunteered to drive us to Enterprise, but we realized on the way that we needed to fill up the tank first. Trying to add a stop in Google Maps while navigating the maze of roundabouts near the airport in the dark proved chaotic, and I ended up circling around before finally finding the Shell station near our hotel. By that point, I was frazzled and more than ready to hand over the keys, so Chris and my mom took the car to return it while Sandy and I headed back to the hotel.
By the time they returned, it was too late to watch the Harry Potter movie we’d planned on, so we all decided to call it a night. We had an early flight ahead of us and wanted at least a little rest before the long day of travel home.